Thursday, October 21, 2010

Mutter kommt in Berlin an!

Watch out Berlin, the Clark women are on the loose! Mom and I have had a blast sightseeing in Berlin and beyond. It's been so great to have her here and introduce her to my new home (for at least the next 9 months). She was also great enough to schlep all of the things I forgot at home or can't buy in Europe across the Atlantic. I love my Momma-Sherpa!
Inventory:
-2 jackets
-skirt
-Thanksgiving and Halloween decorations
-Halloween candy for my students
-tote bag
-2 cans for pumpkin for pumpkin pie
-umbrella
-3 packets of smoked salmon as gifts for my hosts
-socks for my wellies
-bunny ears for Halloween costume
-2 Blistex chapsticks
-Germany travel book

Difficult Yet Important

While in Krakow I had the opportunity to visit the Auschwitz Concentration Camp and Birkenau Extermination Camp. While it was not a journey I looked forward to per se, I did think that it was an important visit to make while in the area. Reflecting on my visit there, I am surprised by my reaction. I expected to feel a weighty feeling of grief however the strongest emotion that I experienced was that my presence there was wrong. In a way that's  difficult to express in words, I found that something about the hundreds of tourists trooping over the place where hundreds of thousands suffered and died felt jarring and intrusive. I think Holocaust education is extremely important but should there really be a cafe for tourists at Auschwitz? There are no easy answers.

There really isn't much to say about the pictures I took. I'm going to let them speak for themselves.I'll end with the oft repeated German phrase concerning the Holocaust. Nie wieder-Never again.







Translation from German: In memory of all those who died. Rest in peace.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Krakow: Travels to the Motherland


That's right folks, I've can finally say that I've made it to the land of my people, the country of the Lesniak clan and I can now unequivocally say that Polish is the most unintelligible language I've ever heard. Sure, I knew a few words of Polish before going but they were comprised of phrases taught to me by my Polish grandfather. Knowing how to say "Give me a kiss, little girl", "I love you" or "sour pickle" were probably not going to serve me well and might just end up with Poles wondering who this insane American girl is expressing affection toward strangers. Anyway, the long and short of it is that to this English-German ear Polish just sounds like a really long string of "sch-cheech-shush-psh" sounds. I essentially spent the whole trip with a befuddled look on my face.
Despite my language obstacle, I absolutely fell in love with Krakow. It is an adorable little cobblestoned town, filled with charm. Considering that it was my first trip to the former Eastern Block, I was expecting a more dingy, post-Communist city but Krakow is clean, modern in many ways and yet still has an endearing old world appeal. It was not badly bombed during the war and thus the city and it's buildings have luckily been preserved. Here are a few snapshots from our tour around the city:
St. Mary's Cathedral

Me inside the famous Krakow head statue in the town square.

Part of our little group in front of the Old Town Hall Tower.


Krakow's old Jewish cemetery
Krakow University where Copernicus studied and did his work.

The window where Pope John Paul would address the very Catholic Poles.

Wawel Castle

The most adorable Teddy Bear store!
Finally, I need to say something about the Polish bagel. On every (and I do mean every single) street corner in Krakow is a small stand. These stands all sell exactly the same thing, the bread ring pictured below:
This, the people of Krakow claim, is the REAL bagel. I know my friends from New England are getting indignant right now since everyone in the Northeast thinks that their town has the world's best bagels, but Krakow claims to be the place of origin. For a little more than 33 cents (did I mention that Poland is cheap!?) you can buy a Polish bagel from one of the thousands of vendors across the city. They are like Starbucks in Seattle, you are never more than a block away!
In summary: Krakow is amazing! Go if you have the chance. Over and out.



Wednesday, October 6, 2010

I love my students!


They might be crazy and really try my patience sometimes but getting notes like this from my students make it all worth it!

Sunday, October 3, 2010

One Month in Germany:What I have learned thus far...

1. It is never okay to cross the street against the street light. Ever.
Seriously, you could be standing at a completely dead intersection with absolutely no traffic in sight and everyone will wait at the corner for the light to change. Early on in my stay here I made the mistake of entering the street against the light. There was not a car in sight and I didn't see the point of waiting however the gaggle of old German women on the other side of the street did and shot me quite a few disapproving looks along with a couple "tsk tsk"s. Needless to say, unless you want to be publicly chastised, don't enter the street until the light is decidedly green.

2. Germany has the most obedient dogs in the entire world.
There is a great love of Man's Best Friend in Germany. People treat their dogs like members of the family, take their dogs everywhere and also train their dogs very well. I often see dogs outside of stores, waiting patiently for their owners without being tied up. They will go with their owners to cafes and quietly sit under the table. (Of course, Freddie, the dog that lives in my house is a complete exception to this generalization and is completely out of control.)

3. That being said, no one picks up their dog poop off the street.
Considering how fastidious and orderly Germans are in most aspects of their life, I was completely surprised to find that they do not pick up their dogs' poop off the street. It took me stepping in several piles to truly become aware of the gravity of the situation. Now I am acutely alert when I am walking down the street to avoid all the land-mines left behind by Berlin's canine population. Seriously though, how hard is it to pick up dog poop and throw it away?!

4. There are reminders of WWII every where.
I continue to be amazed by how many physical reminders of the war are still present in Berlin. There are many buildings in which one can still see bullet holes and signs of battle. It's hard to imagine that people of my grandparents' generation actually fought bloody battles on the very streets where I now go shopping and meet friends in cafes. I snapped this picture of a street corner that had been restored but in which the bullet riddled wall was consciously left exposed.

Similarly, just last week a bomb from WWII was found at my local train station and I had to find a new way to and from work until the bomb was disposed of. When I asked my Betreuungslehrerin (mentor teacher) about it, she said that bombs are often found in the city during construction. I was really surprised at how casually she talked about it but I guess that finding seventy year old bombs in construction sites in Berlin must be commonplace by now.

5. The Berlin Wall still exists.
Yes, there are portions still standing as memorial throughout the city, but there is also a pervasive mental separation between the East and West. The Germans call this "Der Mauer im Kopf" or "the wall in the head". Many people still identify themselves as either West or East and hold prejudices or stereotypes against the other side. Reunification was a difficult process and still a very complicated topic which would take much too long to explain. While most are happy to be one unified Germany, there is still a very palpable separation.

6. Wearing a ring on your right hand means that you are married.
I wear a ring on my right ring finger and kept getting odd looks from people my age. I couldn't figure it out until all my students at school started asking me if I was married and how many children I have. At first I responded with, "Of course not! I'm only 22!". Then I realized they thought my ring meant I was married. Therefore, I've started wearing my ring on my left hand so that people don't think I'm a married with children.

7. Finally, it is acceptable, if not encouraged, to drink beer anytime, anywhere.
Coming from the US where open container laws are fairly strict, I still feel a little bit of shock when I see people walking down the street, drinking a beer. I have to remind myself that it is totally legal. You'll see people enjoying a cold beer on the subway, on a street corner, everywhere and it's completely normal. You go, Deutschland! Prost!